It´s Christmas Time in the City

 Buenos Aires, Argentina.  Summer.  Christmas.  

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!  I guess this is a quazi-Christmas card!  Wow, being in a big city in the middle of a hot and balmy summer is quite a change for Christmas.  Nonetheless, Dave and I are having a great time exploring around the city and have recently checked ourselves into a pretty awesome apartment in Sam Telmo, Buenos Aires.  The website AIRBNB.com has worked well for us again and we are really happy with our spot...though the nights are a bit toasty.  Last night we had a huge electric storm which sent the massive doors and windows in the apartment slamming around while we were cooking some dinner.  It lasted for a good 2 or 3 hours...fun!  I love electric storms and heavy rain when I´m indoors...unlike the Ecuadorian experience that I wrote about in September...

Before the apartment, we stayed closer toward the center of town for three nights in this man´s house...which was a hostel, I guess.  It´s been fun to stay in places that are not packed with tourists so that you get a better feel of the city and what it´s like to live in an apartment here.  The owner Mario loved to speak Spanish to Dave, which was funny.  He spoke so fast that neither of us could really understand very well.  We both threw in the courtesy laugh when we could and always smiled.  There are a few options for us to attend International English Speaking Christian church services.  We will either go on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day. 

Feria de San Telmo.  Antiques and Handicrafts. (Above Pictures Also...)

In Argentina, the traditions around the Christmas holiday are a bit different.  Apparently, everything happens on Christmas Eve.  Everything closes down for the day.  People eat and hang out until midnight, when all the presents are opened and festivities take place.  After presents are done, the drinking and fireworks begin.  It´s crazy out on the streets and loud until very late.  Into the wee hours of the morning people are partying.  Christmas day is full of sleeping and eating leftovers.  I think that things start partially stirring outside at around 5:00 pm or so.  Dave and I are planning to cook a big meal and celebrate the holiday in our apartment.  There will be some other people staying there too, we just haven´t me them yet. 

 I can´t believe that we only have two more stops after this before landing down in Los Angeles.  On the 26th of December, we will take the ferry across the Rio de la Plata to Uruguay and head to Colonia del Sacramento for a night and then on to Montevideo.  Both of us can hardly believe how fast everything went and that we will be in winter soon.  Brrr.  We are so thankful of the opportunities that we had to travel and the time spent together during the last 4-ish months.  I´m getting anxious for my job...but feel ready at the same time.  The mountain is calling to Dave...

Feria de los Mataderos...dedicated to the Gaucho culture of Argentina.  Fun and Folkloric!

Best wishes to everybody during Christmas and New Years.  We will be in LA during the 31st to the 4th, and in SFO from the 4th until the 8th.  Catch us if you can, it will be a whirlwind of visiting! 

MUCH LOVE AND MERRY CHRISTMAS!
ELISABETH AND DAVE

 More modern business-y sector of Buenos Aires.  Microcentro.

Beautiful tree-lined streets of Ricoleta

 Our lunch spot today.  Fantastic!

Last dose of Patagonia

Parque Nacional Lanín

 Swimming in Lago Huechulaufquen.  Rather be waterskiing ;)

Because we loved the freedom from the rental car, we decided to do it all over again and head into a national park just outside of San Martin de los Andes and Junín de los Andes.  It´s crazy how our trip is really winding down and we have just a few more weeks!  Instead of just two nights, we decided that 4 would be good and we got a screaming deal on our "little engine that could."  This was a seriously small buggy.  It successfully carried us through some gnarly steep and rugged dirt roads.  What´s the point of SUV´s anyway? jk!

The first leg of the trip we camped on Lago Verde and our weather was positively HOT!  Dave had some successful fishing and I had some success hanging up the hammock and reading in the shade or by the shore of the lake.  Let me tell you how busy we were...!  Meanwhile, there was a huge adventure race going on called La Mision and 100s of people were walking through the campsite and the road (not bothering us at all) but looking extremely haggard and hardcore.  They were passing at all hours of the night. 

After two nights at that side of the park, we headed to the main area where there is a huge lake called Heuchelaufquen which meanders around the bases of huge beautiful craggy snowcapped peaks.  From this side of the park, the HUGE Vulcán Lanín is visible and looming over the park.  We drove to the furthest point possible alongside a lake called Paimun where we would base for a few days of fishing, smiming, camping, and...for me...becoming a cowgirl. 

Cabalgar: v. to horseback ride

I haven´t been on a horse since 3rd grade and I am definitely reasonably afraid of them.  Last time I was in Ojai at my grandpa´s ranch and he put me on a horse that was wild and it took off running, I was screaming.  I´m sure that you can see how I was not exactly happy.  I realized that when I got to Patagonia that I needed to get on a horse...I would become a cowgirl.  We´ll call it "gaucha"...even though that doesn´t translate at all in Spanish.  Men/cowboys are "gauchos."  There is definitely a large presence of the cowboy culture here in Argentina.  It´s similar to the wild west feel of the US, just not so commercialized.  They wear amazing clothing, including a beret...sometimes instead of a leather hat.  The whole thing is quite picturesque and interesting. 

Our horseback ride was awesome and the dude who was leading us through the trail dropped us off at a primo fishing spot for the afternoon.  Dave was in heaven and caught some BIG rainbow and brown trout in the Rio Paimun and the confluence of the Rio and the Lago.  The day was like a cherry on top of our Patagonian experience, not to mention that the entire camping was fantastic also.  We were glad to be done battling horseflies (they are really bad in Patagonian summers in the countryside), but would miss the scenery and calmness of being out in the middle of nowhere.  Unfortunately, my day back on a horse doesn´t officially make me stand at cowgirl status, I would like to consider myself successful in conquering the fear. 

 I can´t believe that I don´t remember our Gaucho´s name...but there he is!

A little lakeside splendor, Lago Paimun

Both of us...before they adjusted the stirrups on my legs.  I was a little bit smashed. 

 

Reading spot lakeside...

One of Dave´s many catches on the Rio Paimun.  Unfortunately I was on the other bank of the river so I couldn´t get a close up...but I got to watch the flight!

(Dave has a lot more pictures on his camera...we´ll have to get those put up!)

On to Buenos Aires and Christmas in the City!  Love to all, Liz and Dave

Acampar, Pescar, Parques Nacionales, LiL Buggies...

Parque Nacional Los Alerces:

Lago Rividavia.  First Night´s Camp.

 

After hitchhiking back into Trevelin, Argentina from Futaleufu we promptly showered and organized a rental car for ourselves to enter Parque Nacional Los Alerces for a few days.  The national park system in Argentina is well developed and there are many in the Patagonia area.  This park was not only highly recommended for its scenery, but also for its fabulous fishing opportunities.  We ended up in a little grey compact car with plenty of pickup and no power steering.  This is where I would develop my stick shift driving skills, on the little back roads of Argentina´s parks. 


Sidenote...in Patagonia everything closes for a mid day siesta.  For example, when we went to the grocery store, they were about to close for a 4 1/2 hour mid-afternoon nap break.  You don`t rush Elisabeth Morton in a supermarket, especially when she and her husband are both hungry.  We walked out with 6 bags of food after running around frantically for 10 minutes.  Curious why we had so many chips, cookies, and cans of beer. 

Rio Rivadavia

The park was beautiful and we were lucky to have completely clear and hot days.  The first night we camped alongside Lago Rividavia and Dave fished from the shore a bit that night.  The next day we spent walking up and down the shores of Rio Rivadavia peering through the clear bright turquiose waters to spot trout in the feeding areas.  We were literally walking up and dowm to find fish and Dave would throw a few casts in.  Never experienced fishing that that in such a picturesque place.  Very fun! 

The next day we finished the circuit of the park roads and headed out toward Lago Cholila to explore the river and area around.  It was BEAUTIFUL along the river, Rio Carrileufu, and we found a picture perfect spot to camp.  Dave has been jumping right into the rivers and wet wading like a mad man.  I guess that shows his dedication to fishing...when you willingly trod through VERY cold waters for a chance at those big fish.  From what he seemed to say, the rivers in Patagonia have been a bit difficult to fish, but inherently rewarding when you finally pluck a few out.

Camp spot along the Rio Carrileufu, near Lago Cholila

We were sad to give our rental car back in.  The freedom of transportation was awesome and actually very reasonable.  Off to the bus station to figure out where we will go next.  After some quick deliberation, we decide to head further north back to Bariloche for a quick stopoff and up to San Martin.  More National Parks, fishing, and warm weather!

Hanging out by the banks Rio Rivadavia

Dave wet-wading the the frigid waters and throwing some casts in Rio Rivadavia

Look closely...there are a few truchas in there...

Panoramic Views from Rio Carrileufu

Rafting with a Legend

Futaleufu, Chile

  

Home for the next few days...!

 

After a quick and seamless border crossing between Trevelin, Argentina and Futaleufu, Chile, we arrived at our final destination...Futaleufu Explore. Standing outside a bright blue older rustic house with a wonder van parked in front was Josh Lowry, a man who we would get to know just a bit over the next four days. Wondering about how everything would turn out, Dave and I counted it as an adventure and told ourselves that we´d take it one day at a time, seeing how everything panned out on the water. We were scheduled to leave at around noon that day for the water. We left around 1:30 ish after safety boaters began to show up and gear was loaded.

The scenery around Futaleufu is breathtaking and Dave and I just kept on looking around, wondering how it could get any better. The first day of rafting we were in a raft with Oliver the German Polo Player and Daniel the high school student (he was recruited for more power and weight in the raft). Oliver was definitely a high roller and was not shy about it. A German by birth, Oliver married a Colombian woman and has lived in Spain for the last 25 years working in the casino gaming industry and playing polo in Barcelona and Buenos Aires. We had a good time getting to know him and hearing some far fetched stories of near-death rafting experience in Borneo and days flying with the Russian Acrobatic Air Force. Interesting dude. At this point, we didn´t have a solid read on Josh, but he seemed like a veteran of the river with a LOT of experience, few words, and just amazing laughs.

Putting on the river around 3pm when all was said and done, we were in for it. The first class IV rapid called entrada lasts an entire kilometer and is tiring for a warmup! The water is huge on the Futaleufu. I mean, MASSIVE. Even more lucky for us, we arrived before peak season so the water level was high. Needless to say, we had an absolutely rocking time for our first day on the water. Nearly flipping once by being surfed pretty hard in a big hole, we managed to power through and come out clean. Lots of swirly eddies and sneak lines later, we were through with the biggest of the rapids. I swear that our raft was very close to vertical on the waves of Toro rapid (bull) and we were in a 16ft boat. Big waves! This stretch is 8km long and has 16 rapids class III to IV+. Sweet! Typically the rafts can run two class V rapids at the end of the Bridge to Bridge section but the water level was too high and compromising. I guess we´ll just have to go back and check them out during the heart of summer another time!

Adam, a young guy from England relocated for the summer to Futaleufu to safety boat and learn more about the rivers in Chile. A mere 19, he was a great guy to hang out with and one hell of a kayaker. After chatting with Adam for a while, we began to realize that Josh was a legend of kayaking and had made a gnarly first descent on a remote river in Chile. Josh was also a guide on the Grand Canyon for about 10 or 15 years and also worked on the Middle Fork of the Salmon in Idaho for a substantial amount of his life. None of us knew exactly how old Josh was, but I would guess in his early 60s. Unreal. Dave and I camped in his backyard for the next 4 nights and cooked in his rustic kitchen on a wood stove. I will never forget passing those nights drinking excellent boxed wine and eating pasta and soup concoctions in the kitchen and telling stories and laughing the night away with Josh and Adam.

Day 2 Put-In

 

Day two was another exciting day out on the river because we had two class V portages and some fun class IV rapids. You will notice from the pictures that Dave and I have awesome matching gear including purple splash tops and faded red/pink helmets. Again, continually amazed by the power of the river, we watched the safety boaters and Josh finagle the boats down the two rapids called “Zeta” and “Throne Room.” Zeta means “Z” in Spanish and rapid zig-zags down a deep and skinny canyon with incredible volume and power. Throne Room is just rather beastly looking with a huge rock and pour over at the end, making the throne. Luckily, we were able to watch Adam kayak flawlessly through the rapid…awesome! The majorly big rapid of the day that we ran was called Chaos, a rather fitting name. Daniel fell out of the boat but hung on for dear life. Nice job dude!

 

The entry rapid before Zeta.

Daniel and Dave taking a look at Zeta Rapid, our first class V portage

 Dave´s Style Points...

Throne Room 2nd class V portage

Day three didn´t quite materialize as planned because one of our safety boaters got measles…random! We couldn´t go out on the water because we didn´t have two safety kayakers and a safety cataraft. Dave and I decided that we´d take the hardshell kayaks out on the Rio Espolón which is a mellow class II+ river. Dave did so well on his first day and played it super cool besides the fact that he said he was scared to death to tip over while going through the rapids. He tipped over just once in a small rapid and hung around long enough to get a T rescue from Josh. Awesome job Dave! As for me, I was having a really “off” day and ended up swimming twice when trying to ferry across a swirly eddy line and surf wave. My rolls were not happening like they usually do and I slightly dislocated my shoulder a few times after several attempts. Yuck. It was still a beautiful day and a really fun experience to be out with Dave in kayaks. Gonna make sure that we get out in Oregon when we get back!

 

Dave, right before the inevitable...don´t get me wrong, I had plenty of issues also.  They just weren´t captured on film :)

Day four materialized and we were able to get back out on the river in our rafts. We had two paddlers join us and we made a fun and slightly interesting group! …Diana from Connecticut was an upbeat and really fun girl on a solo trip through Chile and Chris from Michigan was a mechanical engineer and a bit…well….let´s just say interesting. We had some great safety boaters with us that day and the weather was absolutely stunning! This would be our most exciting day out on the river, running Terminator rapid and the Bridge to Bridge for the second time. Shortly after a quick portage of the entrance to Terminator, we hopped in the boats to finish the last kilometer(+) of Terminator with huge hydraulics and monster waves. Upon entering a massive hole, it dawned on Dave and I…I wonder why Josh is taking us into this? Before we knew it, we were ALL in the water (guide included) but luckily ended up very close to the boat. Chris and Diana ended up in the raft and Dave and I got picked up by the cataraft and climbed on the back. We still had the end of the rapid and the ramous “Himalaya” waves coming up. The cataraft safety boater quickly spun the raft backward and told us to hold on tight as we were absolutely dominated by these waves. IT WAS AWESOME! We hit the waves backward because we would have 100% flipped by hitting it straight on (all our weight was in the back of the boat).

The Bridge to Bridge section was just as awesome as it was the first day, but we basically paddled through the entire section because Chris needed to make his bus connection by 7pm. We had one close call when Josh took us barreling into a hole backward in a rapid called Wiña. Again, I think that our boat was near vertical and Dave and I were literally staring straight at the water below us. It´s likely a miracle that we didn´t flip. The look on Adam´s face after we were through it was hysterical and concerning ;)

The Futaleufu was awesome. We were so happy to have experienced it how we did, especially being alongside the people we boated with. Dave learned to kayak from a legend in the sport. We will be back, there´s no doubt. It was hard to leave Chile and we thought about going back in, the logistics of the area are tricky and we don´t have much more time. For example, we had to hitchhike across the border because there are only busses running twice a week.

 

 Finding the sneak route in Mondaca Rapid

Well, off to Los Alerces National Park on the Argentine side where we will rent a car and explore the National Park for a few days. Excited to have some transportation freedom!

The team...Adam, Josh, Dave, Liz

Fly Fish Patagonia

Rio Grande, Argentina

There he goes again, plucking fish right and left out of the river! Dave took a trip out on the Rio Grande outside of Trevelin, Argentina. The Rio Grande is a massive watershed made up of many bodies of water that eventually flow into Chile, where this river changes names to Futaleufu. He successfully caught TONS of fish. All I know is that when he came home, his arm was tired from casting and he had about 50 shots of a gorgeous day fishing with many fish-in-hand pictures and smiles all over the place. I´ll just post the pictures and let Dave tell the story.

After trying to figure out how to cast a fly into the storied waters of Patagonia on my own  I  finally broke down and hired a guide. It turns out that without flies, waders, boots, or any other relavent equipment besides a fly rod and no private transportation finding the waters edge with a chance of catching a fish is difficult. The guide service I chose typically does lodge trips for mostly retired Americans coming to stay in their lodge for a week or two and then back to the states without experiencing any other part of the country or arranging any of the travel on their own. Needless to say the group was a little suprised when they received my email inquiring about a one day fishing trip and that I would be in their town in two days.

The trip turned out great and I caught about 30 trout about half of which we could see before making the cast and about half we saw right before they swallowed a streamer I was stripping through likely holes. As you can see from the pictures the fish were all very plump and healthy. If we had only captured a picture of the biggest fish of the day... A brown trout that attacked my streamer and that I successfully got to the side of the boat. For some reason the guide decided he wanted to get the boat to the side for a really good picture without first netting the behemouth. The hooked popped out right before he parked the boat. This thing must have been about 23 inches and pushing 5 lbs. I guess this wouldn´t be a fishing story without a tale about ¨the one that got away¨. Enjoy the pics: